Related Topics

New Pics!!! Zena with her new tack and Koda

10/8/2006 12:00:00 AM

Well, I know it's been a while, I've been riding Zena non stop! Been out on the trails and been doing lots of groundwork! She's doing wonderful!!! Suppose to start on cows in a month or two. Got in ...

Re: Cleaning Tack

9/26/2007 12:00:00 AM

I like the Lexol products. My saddle is pretty ancient now and it's held up well with regular cleaning and conditioning. Here's an article you might find useful: Caring for New Tack - ...

Bookmark and Share

Caring for New Tack

Left end of clickability buttonsLeft end of clickability buttons

Leather care isn't rocket science. It's a lot like caring for your own skin. You clean it well, rinse it thoroughly, and then restore moisture lost in the cleaning process.

Do you look at the bloom on some new tack--the whitish haze saddlers call "talc"--and think you have to get it off? No, you don't; it's not bad for the leather. In fact, it's meant to be there.

Tanning, the process that turns cowhide into leather, dries the leather. Then, to restore moisture and pliability, the leather is "curried" with a mixture of tallows and cod-liver oil, leaving a clear residue that turns whitish as it dries; to see it, look closely at the grain of the saddle (top left photo).

Bloom rubs off so it'll disappear as you ride. To speed the process, just rub with a dry cloth. (Not all new tack arrives at the shop with bloom on it these days. More and more saddles, especially, are rubbed down before they're shipped from the manufacturers.) The usual way to darken new tack and help it break in is by oiling. Stop before you do too much--which probably means before you think you've done enough!

With a little piece of terrycloth or sponge or a small paintbrush, apply a very fine, very light coat of oil--preferably on the underside of flaps and skirts, as shown in the middle photo above. The leather won't darken as much, but the oil won't ooze out on your clothes. Neatsfoot oil is the traditional choice, but there are other good products for oiling tack, many based on neatsfoot oil, that are a little lighter and thinner, such as Lexol Neatsfoot Formula.

article continues below


Don't oil leather that's soft already (saddle seats, for example), or subject to stretching (such as billets, stirrup leathers, and reins). And, because oil destroys glue's ability to stick, don't oil knee rolls (the foam will separate from the leather, which will wrinkle) or laminated strap goods.

Never "strip" your tack. Anything harsh just ruins the leather. Saddle and bridle leather is made to suit the job it has to do, so don't take out what the currying process put in. Lather tack well with a leather cleaner. Then rinse thoroughly, and condition.

One other pointer: Check the weather forecast before you ride. Water is harder on new tack than on older, conditioned tack, so you don't want to be caught out in the rain.

Excerpted from an article by expert saddler Jim Robeson that appeared in Practical Horseman magazine.

Comments (0)
Be the first to comment on this article. Login and post a comment below.
Pages:
| Join now

PracticalHorseman
Bttn Circ Freepreview
Dressage Today

Dressage Today
Get 12 issues of Practical Horseman for ONLY $19.95 - that's a savings of 66% off the cover price!

Practical Horseman is the number one how-to magazine for English-style riders. It presents step by-step training programs and showing advice from recognized experts in hunters, jumpers, equitation, dressage, and eventing, along with money- and time-saving ideas on health care and stable management.

Get the Leading magazine for English riders of all disciplines – Subscribe now!

Outside the US? Canada or International
Email
First name
Last name
Address (line 1)
Address (line 2)
City
State Zip
Payment
Bill me later
Charge my credit card
Do you have a promotional code? Enter here
Give A Gift